One Night in Kuala Lumpur

If “blogger’s block” isn’t a thing by now, it should be. I’ve had an unusually long case of it for the last week. Sitting down to blog, and waiting for inspiration to strike is not fun.

So after a week of watching cat videos and TLC (of course) during blog time, I finally came across the old picture of a taxi driver who shared my Kuala Lumpur mis-adventure.

So how did I meet Mr. Malaysian Taxi driver? Funny story. 

I was travelling from Mumbai to Penang and a last minute, hurried booking had me stuck at Kuala Lumpur International Airport for close to 16 hours. I landed in KL at around 3 pm and my flight out to Penang was at 7 am the next morning. 

No complaints there... I love airports. People watching, cafes, bookstores... what’s not to love? Apart from the fact that you can’t get a decent night’s sleep and free charging points – nothing!

After whiling away a couple of hours, I met Lydia... a girl who was in her late twenties or so and glued to her mobile phone. Turns out she was travelling from Mumbai to Penang on the same flight, and we went to grab a coffee somewhere in the airport. While I enthusiastically talked about stepping out to explore the city, she yawned and said that she was going to find the departure gate for next morning’s flight and stay there. 

We parted ways, and I stepped out of the airport. Standing outside his bright orange cab was... I don’t remember his name, so I’ll call him Cabbie. He was a polite, middle aged man and I felt I could out-run him, should the need arise (good tip if you're a female solo traveler lol)

"I want to go to Petronas," I told him.

“PETRONAS??” He shot me such a bewildered look that would have been more aptly used for someone asking to see the Statue of Liberty in Malaysia. “What do you want to go there for?” 

It appeared that the iconic Kuala Lumpur landmark was an ordinary sight to the locals. I’d probably react the same way if someone told me that they wanted to go to Juhu Beach.

Anyways, I got in the car and we drove for an hour along the highway with nothing to see on either side. He asked me about India and compared everything I said with that in Malaysia. We spoke about Bollywood, festivals, driving etiquette, pets, family and more. 

Finally he stopped the car and indicated that we had arrived. There was no Petronas Tower in sight. Instead, at the side of the highway was a Petrol Pump.... a Petronas Petrol Pump.

Was this a joke? Was he going to leave me at the side of the highway at a petrol station? 

“Where are the towers?” I asked him.

“Towers?” he turned around and looked at me.

“The Petronas Towers”

Cabbie then proceeded to grumble aloud (I’m assuming) in Malaysian with a little bit of English thrown in. Words like “you young girls,” “tourists,” “Petronas Towers,” were audible before he rattled off in Malaysian again. 

Then he turns to me and says “It’s called Twin Towers. Not Petronas. Petronas is a Petrol Pump. Do you want to go to Twin Towers? Will take 3 hours to and fro. 200 Ringgits.”

I would have considered if it wasn't 11 pm or if I had company.  

He probably knew what I was thinking and said “I’ll take you back to the airport... have you had your dinner yet?”

I hadn't. 

On the way back, he stopped at a well lit restaurant off the highway. There were a lot of cars parked outside with people standing around and eating delicious smelling Malaysian food. He parked and indicated to me to follow him inside. We went up the counter of the Malaysian fast food joint and he pointed out and explained the foreign dishes displayed on boards behind the cashier.

I ordered the Charsiew (BBQ Pork) to go. These long boneless pieces of barbequed pork were seasoned with honey, five-spice, and soy sauce. We ate in the car on the way back. My charsiew was sticky, shiny, and a delight to eat. Beautifully caramelized on the outside and tender on the inside it was delicious enough to make a grown man weep.

We reached the airport. I didn't see the Petronas... I mean, Twin Towers, or much of KL. But I had the most amazing Malay food and met a great person. And that sure beat staying at the airport all night. 

P.S. I saw Lydia fast asleep on a bench by the departure gate the next morning, oblivious to the announcements that boarding had begun. Should I wake her up or shouldn't I? I would have got to see the towers if she hadn't spent all night sleeping.

*Sigh*... I woke her up. 

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Restaurant Review - Gonguura

Coming across Mumbai’s first and possibly, only Andhra eating joint, Gonguura happened by pure chance. I was catching up with a friend over coffee and we had so much to talk about that it lasted until dinner time. And you know what cafe food is like... ugh!

The restaurant is named after Gonguura, a leaf essential to preparing Andhra cuisine. Located just off Juhu-Versova Link road in Andheri, from the outside, it looks so ordinary that you may pass right by it without a second glance.The interiors are simple but well lit with around 7-8 tables and decor limited to traditional paintings on the wall. We were the only two customers present that evening, but apparently on weekends, the wait for a table lasts anywhere from an hour to three. 

The pure-vegetarian menu is short, and would probably amount to one page of what you would find in any given south Indian eatery. But what sets it apart is that you won’t find idli, vadas and uttapam as the centre of attraction. Instead, Gonguura features dishes that are practically unknown, such as Punugulu (a tea time snack), Pesarattu (moong bean dosa) and Pulihora (Sour rice)

I ordered the Special Thali... because that’s the only way to sample as much of Andhra cuisine as possible! Best decision of the day! It came with two dry vegetables – crispy spiced tendli with coconut shavings that had not a drop of excess oil in the bowl. And the second, my favourite– the dry brinjal tempered with curry leaves and mustard seeds. I’d go back again just for a bowl full of it! 

One of the gravies was rich ladyfinger curry which added a touch of sweetness to the thali. Pulusu or green gram gravy is a staple in Andhra Pradesh and was the second. It was melt in your mouth good and so healthy – just like all comfort food should be. That with rotis and home made curd really hit the spot. 

I really can’t fault any of it! The tamarind rice was delicious with peanuts and fried dal adding texture. The sambar was simply tantalizing – and came without radish and drumsticks in it, thank God! The Dal was excellent, the papads were fried, but oil-free (weirdly awesome!) and the chutney + stuffed Kashmiri chilli pickle were amazing accompaniments. 

My friend, who was engrossed with his Pappu Annan (Dal and palak Gravy, sambar and rice) ate in silence, relishing every morsel. He suggested that I eat the traditional way - by emptying the bowl of ghee over the rice, sprinkling "gun powder" on top and sampling it with a spoonful of every gravy. While it’s not something I would usually do, it was worth a try. I’ve probably said it before but it was deeeelicious!

I highly recommend the Gonguura special thali! Not only is it unlimited in terms of servings, but it’s super filling, without making one feel sick and sluggish afterwards. Plus, it’s easy on the wallet! The only disappointment was the dessert. For me, that HAS to be show-stopping good, and the lone laddu was a let-down. 

The service was quick and homely. I wanted to take a picture of a decorative bull that was framed on a wall, and they actually switched off all the lights so that I could get a good shot, without having the reflection glaring back. Although the owner wasn’t present, I hear she is an IIM- Lucknow pass-out. The food has her unique touch to it, and it tastes anything but commercial or business-like, and that's what makes it special. With no advertisements or PR, it's pure word of mouth that keeps patrons going back time and again. 

All in all, it’s the closest I’ve come to home-made cooking in a restaurant and I can’t wait to sample the rest of the menu. 

Gonguura, I’ll be back!

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Things to do when you have nothing to do in Mumbai

Personally, I hate having my life disrupted by routine. But living in Mumbai does that to you. It keeps you running – work, meetings, deadlines, grocery shopping, family, train-catching... like a re-run of a very average movie.

And then the weekend arrives. Finally... some free time!! And you, like countless others, are sitting at home, scratching your head and wondering what to do.

You have 5 options:

Bandstand/Carter Road

Juhu Beach

Marine Drive

Malls/Restaurants and Pubs

Stay at home with the idiot box. 

Sure, these are great the first dozen times, but after that, potty training the cat becomes far more interesting.

So I’ve enlisted the help of my fabulous Twitter and Facebook followers to find out what there is to do in Mumbai apart from the above said dreary things. You won’t find eating places on the list. Some of them are on the verge of being “touristy” and the rest already are.

(Side note – If you AREN’T one of my fabulous Twitter and Facebook followers, and are waiting for Diwali to hit that “Follow” button... guess what!)

Here it is:

Spend a morning at Borivali National Park (@FlirtyTango) – Give your lungs a break from all that polluted air and go on a nature walk. Kids will love going on a ride in the toy train, experiencing the lion safari and marveling at the wildlife. The Kanheri Caves is a major attraction here, comprising of 109 caves with rock inscriptions. You can rent a cycle, go camping, and have a meal in the forest-restaurant.

Watch a Play (@FuschiaScribe) – Get a schedule of the Hive, NCPA or Prithvi Theater and attend live concerts and performances. Find out what’s hot and head over for plays, dances, and art.

Visit bluebulb.in (Jordella D’souza) – I recently checked out this website and found that it has a host of things to do. From lifestyle to art and sports to adventure, browse through their list of workshops and fun activities. What I found interesting were these: learn to make Vada Pao like a boss, turn that dusty window ledge into a garden and the art of tea appreciation. 

Visit the Planetarium (@iishitav) – Astronomy lover? The Nehru Planetarium in Worli conducts science quizzes and elocution. If that’s not your thing, simply gaze at the night sky in the planetarium dome. Good for a one-time visit.

Scour the Markets (Rajan Parekh) – Walk down the old streets of Crawford Market, Zaveri Bazaar, Pydhonie, Abdul Rahman Street and Gulal Wadi. Sales, discounts and deals are aplenty, just like the maze of shops and chaotic lanes! It has interesting architecture (like Brihan Mumbai Mahanagarpalika) and a ton of history (like Rudyard Kipling’s birth house). You’ll find everything from imported chocolates to magic tricks... all cheap!

Gallery Hop at Colaba to explore art (@FilmyKeedaa) – Held on the second Thursday of the month, this self guided tour shows you latest the art world has to offer. This isn’t the typical high-class event, there’s a lot of walking involved as you head from one art gallery to the other armed with a map.

Hang out at Powai Lake Waterfront (@Mitzyeah) – As simple as it gets! Take a walk down the promenade and enjoy the musical fountain show. 

Go Boating at Aarey Colony (Anshul Verma) – Choose a boat, decide how long you want to paddle for, pay accordingly and head out. This little green oasis is away from the noise and traffic. Finally, some peace!

Equal Streets and Happy Streets (Kalpesh Patel) - Happy Streets (Navi Mumbai) and Equal Streets (Bandra) have a buzz of events every Sunday, when select roads are made car-free. You can skate, attend a dance or yoga class, draw, paint, or do just about anything. Check if it's on that week before you go.

Walk through Parsi Colonies (Behoz Menon) – An interesting idea, considering how therapeutic these areas are. Rustom Baug, Malcolm Baug and Cusrow Baug, for example have gorgeous in roads lined with old cottages and solid stone buildings, and a personality of their own. 

Take a short cooking class (Khushnaz Y. Khambata) - Cooking classes don't require as much time and commitment as it did before. Weekend ones seem to be an upcoming trend, especially those for all-men. Learn regional cuisines, knife skills, french pastry or take a three hour pasta class. 

Boating along the Gateway of India (Aditya Londhe) – There are short trips that start and end at Mumbai’s iconic monument as well as those that take you to the Elephanta caves. Get into a speed boat and ride the Arabian Sea, taking in the Mumbai docks, the Taj Hotel and the gateway from a distance.

Moonlight cycling Tours from Churchgate to Bandra (Parth Viradia) – When these crowded areas and those in between thin out at night, they undergo an amazing transformation Take the 20 Km-5 hour ride with 70 other people... how much fun does that sound?

Go Dancing – (Digvijay Desai) – Find out where dance classes or events are happening around you. Learn different styles and participate in socials. You’ll meet new people, have fun and have a great work-out too! 

I hope this list will give you enough ideas and motivation to get out of the weekend routine-rut. If you really, really want to rest, that’s what the office is for *wink*

Thank you for the overwhelming response, readers! If you have any more tips to help your fellow Mumbaikars out, comment below, tweet to me or let me know on Facebook. (Remember, nothing food related for now!)

Happy Diwali, everyone! Till next time!

*I claim no credit or ownership for images posted on this blog post. If you find an image appearing here that belongs to you and you do not wish for it to appear here, email me with a link to the image and it will be removed ASAP.
Image credits - the Hindu, prosperyoung.com, babble.com

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The Taxi Scam at Dadar Station

Dadar station, at the centre of Mumbai, is already bustling at 5 am. People are heading to/from work, flower and fish vendors are chatting away on the platform, and one can hear the occasional honking car outside.The station is divided into two sections – Central and Western – joined together by an overhead passenger walkway. 

As Konkan Kanya pulls to a stop on one of the Central Line tracks at the crack of dawn, I lug my heavy suitcase out and curse myself for packing so much. 

Happens every time. 

The thought of staggering with the weight, up the stairs to the walkway, across it to the Western side, down the stairs and into another train is exhausting.

“Madam, taxi?” a turbaned taxi driver asks.

A few drivers are waiting at the platform for passengers, unlike the rest of them who wait outside by their cars. They are approaching people who have gotten off the inter-city trains which seem to be arriving every 15 minutes or so. 

This man offers to carry my suitcase, and I quickly follow him. Outside, his taxi is parked in a narrow lane that’s beginning to light up with shops. He puts the suitcase next to me in the backseat and gets behind the wheel.

Just then, another man sits in the front passenger seat. Before the driver can start the car, I stop him.

“Who is this?” I ask.

“Old passenger. I need to give him change.”

“So get him change from one of the shops. I will not let the cab leave with this man sitting here.”

They look at each other. And then one of them asks me “Do you have change for Rs. 1000?”

I knew for a fact, beyond any doubt, that I had only Rs. 500 notes in my purse. The smaller notes were in my pocket and stuffed into various bag pockets.

I open the purse and give him two notes of Rs. 500 each and he hands me the Rs. 1000.

Before getting out, the man in the passenger seat says “Madam, you have given me one 500 note and one 100. See?” He shows me the notes and hands me back the 100.

I knew then, that something didn’t feel right. I had only 500 notes in my purse... didn’t I?

Maybe I didn’t.

I take the 100, and give him a 500 note. He leaves.

The driver fidgeted for a while. Irritated, I asked, “Now what?”

“We need to fill petrol. It will take 20 minutes” he said.

Argh! I needed to go home, and come all the way back to Dadar in two hours to get to work. I didn’t have 20 minutes to spare. And the prospect of taking a 15 minute catnap at home seemed to be slipping away.

So I take my bags, get out, and look for another taxi.

The episode was forgotten.

SIX MONTHS LATER

There I was again, getting off the 5 am train with a ginormous bag, cursing myself. Some things never change.

“Madam, taxi?”

It was a different turbaned man. However, the events that unfolded thereafter were identical. This time, I was better prepared.

“Old passenger.” He said. “Do you have change?”

“No”

“Madam pliss check.”

“Nope. No change."

Passenger gets out. The driver? He needs to fill petrol again. He courteously tells me in Hindi, “this will take time, and you will be delayed, You can get a taxi down the road. Just a five minute walk!”

I was furious, but it was dark, and there were not many people this time around. Using my better judgement, I left and got another taxi. The entire ride home, I Googled.and what I found wasn’t surprising anymore. 

Page after page of cheated people had shared their experiences. What was worse were the comments from foreign tourists who had already formed their first impression of Mumbai and India because of one cheating taxi driver.

My taxi pulled up at the building and I asked the man at the wheel, “There’s something wrong with the taxis in that lane, isn’t there?”

He laughed and said “Those cars never leave that lane. They never take passengers. Their business is that of switching notes.”

____

P.S. While many of the reviews on Google date back to 2008, I still find a few from as recent as Sept 2015 on Twitter. Maybe the police have a hand in the matter (Indian police.. who knows?) or maybe the drivers are just plain shameless. All I can do is tell you about it.. and hope that you tell someone else. 

P.P.S. If you're following me on Facebook and Twitter, you probably know that my next post is on "Things To Do in Mumbai that Don't Involve Eating." Comment below and give me your suggestions. Best ones will be featured with credits! No Bandra (bandstand + shopping), Juhu beach or Marine drive pleeeaaase!

Image credit - indianexpress.com

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