Monday 26 October 2015

The Miraculous Church of St. Anne de Beaupre

Quebec, like a child of mixed parentage, has features of Europe and Canada, with her own distinct French personality. She takes you back to a time where people still valued the art of conversation, and sat at laughter-filled coffee shops that ran into cobbled streets, or worshiped at the famous Notre Dame Cathedral

My days spent here were like a stone being skipped happily across the water. Time just slipped through my fingers and the days passed by as quickly as the stone takes the next leap forward.

It was only four days, after all, and we had to make the absolute most of it. Plus, when you’re on a sightseeing tour with a couple of dozen other people, there is a schedule to be stuck to. We did sneak away to explore the unexplored, which left us with less time for both - the exploring and the time-bound itinerary.

CANYON ST. ANNE


Before heading to the miraculous Church of St. Anne De Beaupre, we stopped at the 1.2 billion year old Canyon St. Anne. The short 45 minute trek lets you walk along the falls and cross over to the other side of the gorge on suspension bridges of various heights.

Both sides of the path were lined with lush, dense foliage, still glistening with rain from the morning's drizzle. Apart from the rumble of the waterfall below and the twittering of birds overhead, there was silence. The road goes on, first uphill and then down, turning and twisting its way around the canyon.

The last of the three bridges is the one that is closest to rapids and to get to it, one needs to walk down 187 steps. At the bottom, we were met with a long, shaky, wooden bridge. It would have been amazing to zipline across the falls. but hey, when you have a bouncy bridge ahead of you, you jump!


The walk back up the steps is easy at first, and then  every step gets more painful than the last. After puffing, panting, wailing and countless “five minute” breaks, we get to the top... only to walk back uphill and downhill to leave for the miraculous shrine.

CHURCH OF ST. ANNE DE BEAUPRE

The Church of St. Anne De Beaupre, like the Notre Dame Basilica, is one of Quebec's priceless treasures. The entrance to the church are through beautiful copper doors made by Albert Giles (if you haven't read my post on him, click here) The interiors are warmly lit and give out a soft, golden glow. Every inch of the ceiling is covered in words and paintings so fine and regal, that it's impossible to believe it was done by someone lying on a makeshift scaffolding for days with a paintbrush.

The sombre church captivates every sense from the moment you walk in. One can hear the mutter of prayers, smell the smoke wafting up from burning candles and look at rows upon rows of kneeling people writing petitions on little pieces of paper before walking up to the statue and dropping it into a box at the foot of St. Anne.

St. Anne is the grandmother of Jesus, and the patron saint of pilgrims. The church was named after her ever since sailors were rescued by her intercession. The first known miracle at the church happened during the shrine’s construction when a hired worker, Louis Guimond was cured of rheumatism upon placing three stones on the Shrine’s foundation. Ever since then, thousands have been blessed with miracles and thousands more throng in the hope that their faith will bring them one. In fact, the pillars at the front entrance are covered with crutches, canes, braces and other signs of disabilities left behind by pilgrims who have been healed at the church.

After admiring the ornate ceiling and feasting my eyes on a glittering gold Statue of St. Anne, I make my way to a pew and write down petition after petition. That done, I head to the Statue and kneel with a dozen others around the base. Tied to the armrest is a printed prayer to be said before placing one's note into the box. With the prayer said and wad of paper stuffed in the box, it was time to wander around some more!


Walking around the church is like walking into a fairy tale. The light from the stained glass windows light up the ceiling, while below, dancing candle flames cast shadows on the mosaic, marble and stone. 

I come across the Pieta, a replica of Michelangelo’s world renowned statue, and walk along a circular passage that goes behind the altar and comes out the other side. The passage too, has its share of stained glass windows and statues of saints in white marble, 

Stairs lead downwards to a wide underground chapel that’s relatively empty, with a gold statue of Mary beside the altar. This shrine is different in style and design, and it's like stepping into a completely different church altogether. White frilly patterns criss-cross across the ceiling, breaking up alternating the star and floral pattern, all the way to the front altar.


More than spectacular architecture, intricate mosaic and polished sculpture – this church is steeped in history. Prayer mingles with the smoke of a thousand candles, making its way above. That’s what makes it more than just another tourist attraction.


















When I’m in Goa, I often visit a St .Anne’s Chapel, a couple of minutes away from my house, to attend Konkani Mass on Sunday. So the next time I’m home, I’ll be sure to follow up with Her on my miracle. It will probably come my way when the time is right.
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Thursday 22 October 2015

The Market City Food Crawl

I’m not sure if it’s a deep ingrained habit or just some weird eccentricity, but I hate being late. I’d rather wait for half an hour than be five minutes late. And on those extremely rare occasions that I’m behind schedule, the feeling can only be described as a mild panic attack.

Seasoned Mumbaikars will tell you to factor in “traffic time” into your travel. Which I did... I left more than two hours early for the Phoenix Market City Food Crawl in Kurla. If anything crawled that evening, it was the traffic. I reached an hour late.

The insane holdup + above said panic attack + prospect of missing the food at the first restaurant at the Food Crawl = *think of your worst case scenario and insert here*

DESTINATION 1 : SICHUAN HOUSE

Thankfully, Sichuan House is located on the ground floor just as you enter the mail! On entering it like a hot mess, the tweeps and bloggers were just about finishing up with Soups and Starters. Sichaun House is a beautiful looking restaurant with a cool, oriental ambience that’s not over the top.


I can’t really say I loved, (or liked) the food here. Our menu featured Manchow Soup and three kinds of dumplings – Prawn & Chive, Pakchoy & Black Mushroom and Mixed Vegetable & Cilantro.


The Manchow soup was the best among the lot. The texture was rich and it was bursting with the flavour of finely cut veggies. There’s no better way to compliment this steaming hot soup is with a handful of fried noodles on top. While in most restaurants, you need to ask for it separately, the eager-to-please staff bought it out along with the soup

 
I don’t have a favourite pick among the dumplings. They were all presented well but the prawn dumplings weren’t light and juicy. It was quite dense, and a little hard to cut through – like birthday cake that’s kept in the fridge for two days. The vegetable dumplings had a weird, silky, slimy texture – in fact, I don’t even know what vegetables were in the dumpling.

Mushroom and chive was again dense on the outside but the filling was okay-ish. Definitely something I wouldn’t order again, if I happen to visit.

DESTINATION 2: AMAYA

The time spent at Amaya passed in the blink of an eye. Not because I was having such a wonderful time, but because the meal was itself was rushed and hurried. I don’t remember the names of the dishes, nor the ambience... pity! We were probably in and out of there in under 20 minutes, if I had to take a guess.

Amaya had the best and worst food of the night. One thing I loved on the menu was the Hari Mirch Dhaniya ke Tikki. I would consider going back to Amaya just for this! Crispy melt-in-your-mouth kebabs made of potato and slivers of green chilli, stuffed with cheese. It was simply gorgeous! The Paneer kebab was good too! Flaming red and seasoned beautifully, it was super soft and deeeelicious! I wish they would have put more thought into the plating.  


Strange that my faves are vegetarian right? The non veg fare was quite disappointing. The chicken kebabs were crisp and flavoured with yoghurt and garlic on the outside, but was completely raw inside. It wasn’t a one-off piece. Everyone on the table was in agreement. The tandoori prawns were great, however, they were really small – not what you would expect in a large restaurant like this one. Same goes with the mutton kebabs... these pics have been clicked after zooming in to the max!
What was nice was that the chef came out to say hello and ask for feedback. Also, the chutneys and sauces came in little chai glasses... nice touch, Amaya!

DESTINATION 3: 212 ALL DAY


My prayers for meat were answered at 212 All Day Cafe. The interiors looked artsy, lively and upbeat and I would have loved to sit indoors. However we were seated in the Alfresco area to enjoy a live comedy show! The staff was super attentive and despite the noise and chaos, they would respond to merely a look in their direction.

Our menu included a thin crust pepperoni pizza and homemade mini veg burgers with fries. Since the table consisted of all vegetarians, I had the pizza all to myself *evil grin.*

The pizza was alright – thin crusted and light with a lot of seasoning and cheese! What would have made it better was more pepperoni and some kind of toppings (it had exactly one pepperoni placed in the middle of each piece... no more, no less.)


The desserts were average as well. I don’t know why everyone loved the Tiramisu! I certainly didn’t think it was overly special. I liked the Peach Yogurt Cake more. It was made using hung yogurt, cream and peaches. Aside from the fact that it could have used a little more sweetness, it was a quite interesting.





Aaaand that all folks. The good, the bad and the ugly from the MarketCity Food Crawl.

Has anyone tried these restaurants yet? Maybe you’ve had a better experience or ordered something I need to try. Tweet to me @ImGoanCrazy or catch me on Facebook @ThatGoanGirl
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Sunday 18 October 2015

On Renting a Home in Goa

I’ve gotten quite a few emails during the last couple of weeks from foreign tourists who happened to stumble across my blog, looking for information on Goa. So I’m going to take a break from the Canada post overload and deal with the most common questions. 

Should I stay in a hotel or a vacation home? 
Where? How much is a reasonable price to pay? 
How can I be sure that I’m not getting fleeced?

Whether you are a domestic tourist travelling to Goa for a long weekend or someone who wants to escape the long, snowy, winter for 4-6 months, it all comes down to three things:

1. Your budget
2. The time of the year
3. What kind of traveler you are (the hotel-pool-sightseeing kind or the local adventurer)

Let me guess – you want something “inexpensive because you will be out on the beach all day and just need a place to sleep at night.” 

Or you want the “cheapest accommodation possible with all amenities, Wi-Fi, swimming pool, safety, maid, cook, circus acrobat and more.” Don’t we all. 

As a local, I can tell you one thing. Apart from petrol and alcohol, staying in Goa is not cheap. It’s not expensive either. 

Glad we cleared that up.

Booking: 

You can find a lot of houses for rent on sites like OLX and Quikr. Although you will get direct access to trust worthy homeowners on these sites, you will find the majority to be agents and brokers to whom you will have to pay a cut (a month’s rent if it’s long term or anywhere between Rs. 500-3000 for a short stay.) 

Sites like Guesthouser.com, myindianstay.com and of course, AirBnb also take a cut, however you can be assured of having a place to stay when you arrive. These sites verify the property before listing. 

Social Media is the best, easiest and quickest way to find your ideal vacation rental. Groups like this one and this one have homeowners posting their property and allows tourists to post their requirements too. Here's a Facebook group for South Goa. Have a quick chat and exchange contact details with owners without having to pay a cut to a website or agent. 

Secondly, once you find what you’re looking for, you can always ask for contact details of people who have stayed there in the past or look up the property online for reviews. You will find agents on these sites too, but they’re easy to spot because they comment on nearly every query on the feed. 

How much will I have to spend?

Totally depends on the season you travel and the house/apartment, how well it is furnished, location, number of people, etc. This means a lot of variation in price, so don't be excited when you hear of something really low.

A fully furnished Portuguese Villa could be anywhere from Rs. 40000/- per month during off season to Rs. 80,000/- during season time. While a 1BHK fully furnished apartment could be Rs. 12,000/- to Rs. 20,000/-  The price of apartments would increase depending on the number of bedrooms of course. A 3BHK fully furnished apartment can go for upto Rs. 45,000 during season time. Could be higher if the place has a pool.

If it is unfurnished, in bad shape, or isolated, a Portuguese villa could be Rs. 20,000/-(off season)  to 35,000/- during season time. Electricity, water and cooking gas bills will be your responsibility. That isn't very expensive and can range from Rs. 2000 - 3000 a month upwards, depending on your usage (especially if you use A/C)

Staying for a shorter duration (a couple of days - two weeks) means you will have to pay a daily tariff. You can get something for as cheap as 500 for a couple, which is as basic as it gets. Don't expect anything aesthetically pleasing at this cost.  Rs. 2,000 for a couple to Rs. 4,000 for a family or group is decent and you can expect a well furnished place with all amenities. Apartments with a pool will come at a higher cost. 

Paying in Advance

The travel and tourism industry works on “part payment in advance,” policy to assure of no loss in business for last minute cancellations. 

If you’re not comfortable paying a part in advance, once you get to Goa and stay in a hotel for a week while you search. You will find a lot of sign boards everywhere saying “Rooms to Let” that you can check out. For long term rent, you may have to pay in advance or give the landlord a security deposit consisting of one's month's rent which is refundable. 

Where?
  • If you want peace and quiet, head to the south. Patnem and Palolem are the most common. North Goa has more tourist activity, and you have a wider variety of options. 
  • Anjuna, Arambol and Vagator are the places to be if you like the old trance, hippy scene. Keep in mind that these are crowded areas, and you will have to be ok with that.
  • Being along the coast, Calangute, Candolim and Baga are trendier places and have tons of eateries and entertainment options. 
  • Saligao and Siolim in North Goa offer something unique. These places are between the coast and cities, but have maintained a village-like vibe, with trees, lakes and fields.
Things to Keep in Mind

Old Goan houses have beautiful doors made of wood and windows made of shells, so it's not completely sealed around the edges. This means a lot of humidity indoors and salt water in the air which may harm your electronics. Indian electronics are quite study that way. 
If you're renting a Goan house during the monsoon, check for leaky roof tiles. (all part of the experience!)
Another thing that's not very common, but I shall tell you anyway...is snakes. If you're renting in an area surrounded by trees and fields, don't be surprised if you're visited by one. 

Guest Houses Over Hotels?

Yes! I’m all for the “live like a local” philosophy. While (good) hotels offer you everything you need at the touch of a button, there’s something special about living in a homestay. Friendly neighbours, the bakers horn, the fisherwoman’s yell, a random cat in your balcony, power cuts that drain your phone/laptop and force you to admire the fireflies outside... all the small things that make Goa... well, Goa!

Questions still unanswered? Comment below, email me, or Tweet @ImGoanCrazy

Cya next time! xoxo

Picture Credit - Jim.bhai via Instagram
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Monday 12 October 2015

A Lesson in Copper

It must be pretty cool to have a family business that’s known throughout the continent, especially one that’s not related to food – those tend to gain popularity as the generations go by.

What I loved about Albert Gilles Copper Art is that it’s a quaint little structure by the countryside in Chateau Richer, Quebec. By looking at it on the outside, one would never guess that this was the place where master craftsman Albert Gilles made magic with copper.

While the incredible artist, Albert Gilles is no longer alive, his daughters keep the 87 year old copper smith tradition flourishing. Apparently, they are the last crafters of their kind, so I’m really glad I could go and appreciate the art. The method they use is Copper Repousse - pressing shapes into the reverse side of soft copper using wooden tools.

From tiny pendants to the gigantic doors of the Basilica Sainte-Anne church doors you see in the picture, the time and detailing required during this painstaking process is incredible. In fact, Albert took over 15 years to create 50 large silver panels telling the story of the Life of Christ.


Although I love marveling at art, I’m not the artistic type. My grandmother did all art and craft related projects I was assigned in school... I hope no ex-teachers are reading this.


Here are three attempt at Copper Repousse - my cousins, my brothers and mine.


I'm not telling you which one is mine! (hint - it's the best one!)
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Sunday 11 October 2015

Confessions of a Souvenir Hoarder

Souvenir – the word itself is beautiful! Probably because it has that gentle sound of brushing the dust off a memory. It’s a wonderful label that can apply to anything whose real value lies in it’s association with the past. But on arrival home, it makes it’s way into a box or a showcase.

If you’re a bit of a hoarder like I am, you’ll understand. 

There’s so much city-centric stuff you have to get when you’re in a new place – a tee, a shot glass, a keychain, street jewellery, postcards! Aaaahh... if only I had a house with unlimited storage! It feels horrible to throw it all away because it's a reminder of so many fun moments. 

To me, collections are fascinating. I wonder why people collect what they do. There's probably that light-bulb moment in people's head that goes, “I love this stuff. I want to have as much of this stuff as I can possibly get... and maybe someday, I’ll have ALL of this stuff!”

Yeah, that seems pretty accurate. 

I think I’ve tried collecting almost every touristy thing there is. But I find that tee’s get too tight (or loose, if I'm lucky) or fade, there are so many beautiful postcards to choose from (resulting in me parting with a lot of cash in buying them all). I’ve even collected a rock from every place... I wonder where they are...

One thing I love collecting are travel brochures. You get them everywhere, they’re beautiful, and they’re almost always free. I find them to be a sign of the times. It satisfies the feeling of *being there* again. Reading them every now and again is a nice pass time, too - looking at the little map, the nearby landmarks, the photoshopped pictures. Google and GPS just don’t have the same feel. It’s like reading a book in the flesh versus Kindle. No comparison, right?

Here are a "few" of my precious brochures.


 Another thing I like to collect is currency. I keep small bills and coins from every place. And if it’s an old coin, even better! It’s like a little bit of history in your hands. Currency really is a part of the trip, and you don’t have to take any extra effort to go looking for them. Plus, they fit in a wallet – so no wastage of storage space. More place for my leaflets... yaaay!

Here's a beer mat I collected from a great pub called Highlander in Singapore! Would have probably made for the start of a great collection.

A friend of mine collects spare keys from the hotels she stays at... and another collects Starbucks mugs. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, I guess.

So...do you collect travel brochures too, or do you just Google everything? Tell me what you hoard, so I don't feel I have a serious problem. :)

P.S - I hope you've liked my facebook page and follow me on Instagram

Till next time!
xoxo
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Thursday 1 October 2015

All Aboard!

Now that I think about it, I spent a lot of time in Canada on boats. You’re probably wondering what one does on boats besides fishing – but no, I did not fish.

The Tall Ship Kajama

Have you ever had a ride on a Tall Ship? You know, the ones with sails, carrying pirates? 

It was a beautiful sunny day when we sailed out of Toronto Harbour on a three mast schooner. The Kajama is gorgeous, has a rich sailing history, and it’s hard to imagine that a ship from 1930 could look so sleek. 


This 90 minute cruise let’s you admire the Toronto skyline by day without the guide being too touristy and pointing out landmarks, allowing you to just “hang out.” Canadian Sailors sing shanties while getting the boat far out into the water... which was awesome! The few happenings during the tour are spaced out so you get a good balance of excitement and relaxation. If you’re lucky, you get a chance to raise the sails (hard work, by the way!) Everyone seemed excited about the canon they fired at the end. Oh well. 

They offer food and drinks aboard the ship, but it is pricey, as one would expect. And unless your goal is to work on your tan, sunscreen and a hat is essential. 90 minutes was probably a bit too long for the entire thing – they could have perhaps cut down the time and subsequently, the ticket price.

Whale Watching

I was super excited to watch whales ‘Moby Dick’ style but *sigh*

It was dark, gloomy, rainy, foggy and overall, miserable weather. 

The boat was impressive though – there was an open air deck on top, the middle deck was a semi indoor deck that was enclosed in glass, while the bottom was completely enclosed in glass and contained seats and a canteen serving below average food. We eagerly watched the whale positioning monitor and saw them swim below the boat. The guide jabbered on the mike incessantly... and I was trying to not feel sea-sick. 

Three hours, guys! Three hours! And we finally saw a fin of a whale in the distance. Needless to say, we couldn’t capture it on camera. What a waste of CAD 80! But hey, it isn’t something you do everyday.

The Thousand Islands 

The next day, we set off to explore the thousand islands by boat. The weather was clear and sunny, bordering on hot, and we were sure those whales must have been frolicking around in all their glory in Charlevoix. The spectacular thousand islands in Ontario is made up of 1864 islands in the St. Lawrence River, sharing the USA and Canada border. Some of them are so tiny, they can support only a couple of trees while others had lavish mansions built on them. 

After a while, the islands do get a bit monotonous. However the highlight of the trip would be the Boldt Castle – I don’t know if I remember this right, but I think the guide said that the castle was built by a man who lived on the main island, and wanted to keep his mother in law near, yet far.

I bet everyone has wanted their own private island at some point. And these islands were pretty neat. I have to wonder though – what if someone has a cappuccino craving? Or needs to borrow something from the neighbour? Pretty inconvenient to start up the speed boat several times a day... What do you think?

I love your comments, so keep them coming!
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